In the far south-west of Uganda, where the hills of Kigezi fold into one another like green pleats, a lake wanders between the ridges in a shape that looks drawn by hand. Lake Bunyonyi, whose name means “the place of many little birds”, is one of the most beautiful lakes in East Africa: a maze of bays and headlands, dotted with 29 islands and framed on every side by steep, terraced hillsides that climb to more than 2,200 metres.
It is a place built for rest. After the mud and effort of gorilla trekking in Bwindi or Mgahinga, or the long road from Kampala, Bunyonyi offers cool air, quiet water, dugout canoes and a slow, easy rhythm that most travellers wish they had planned longer for.
The lake at a glance
- Location: Kabale District, roughly 7 kilometres west of Kabale town, between Kabale and Kisoro and close to the border with Rwanda.
- Altitude: about 1,950 metres above sea level, which makes the mornings and evenings cool.
- Size: about 25 kilometres long and 7 kilometres wide at its widest, covering roughly 61 square kilometres.
- Islands: 29, of many sizes, some tiny and some large enough to hold lodges and farms.
- Origin: the lake formed when a lava flow from the Virunga volcanoes blocked the valley of the Ndego River and water collected behind the natural dam. The shape of the flooded valleys explains its many fingers and inlets.
How deep is it? Scientific measurements generally put the maximum depth at around 40 metres. Some guides and locals say it is far deeper, up to 900 metres, which would make it the second-deepest lake in Africa. That figure has not been confirmed, and we prefer to tell you what is known and what is legend.
People of the lake
The hills around Bunyonyi are the home of the Bakiga, farmers who have terraced the slopes over generations to grow sorghum, beans, potatoes and vegetables, a landscape so distinctive that it has appeared on Uganda’s banknotes. The Batwa, the original forest people of this region, also live around the lake, many having been resettled after Bwindi and Mgahinga were declared national parks. Both communities offer guided cultural experiences. You may also meet the Abaheesi, the traditional blacksmiths.
Cultural visits work best when they are led by the community and when your fee goes to the people who host you. We choose experiences that meet that standard.
The islands and their stories
Every island has a tale. Your canoe guide will tell the versions passed down locally, and a few are worth knowing beforehand.
- Akampene, or Punishment Island: a tiny island where, according to Bakiga custom in the past, unmarried girls who became pregnant were left. Some drowned attempting to swim to shore; others were rescued by men who could not afford a bride price. The practice ended long ago. It is a sobering place, and it is best visited quietly and with respect for the women whose story it tells.
- Bwama Island: the largest island, once home to a leprosy treatment centre founded in the 1930s and now a school. Nearby Njuyeera, or Sharp’s Island, is named for Dr Leonard Sharp, the English missionary doctor who lived at the lake.
- Bushara Island: a forested island that hosts a lodge and walking trails.
- Bucuranuka, or Upside Down Island: named in a local legend about a group of beer drinkers who refused to share with an old woman, whereupon the island is said to have flipped over.
Things to do
Paddle a dugout canoe
The defining activity at Bunyonyi is a canoe outing. Local paddlers carve their boats from single trunks, and a guided paddle between islands, past reeds and terraces and open water, takes an hour or two, or a full day if you add a picnic. Sunrise and sunset are the best times, when the water turns pewter and gold.
Walk and cycle the ridges
Trails follow the shore and climb the ridges above it, with views over the islands. Village walks lead through terraced farms, past homes and schools, and to local markets. Cycling routes wind along the lake road and through the hills.
Birdwatching
Bunyonyi is a good birding spot with papyrus, reed beds, lakeshore woodland and farmland. Weavers, cormorants, herons, kingfishers and sunbirds are easy to see from a canoe, and the surrounding forests and swamps hold more specialised birds. Bring binoculars and an early start.
Swimming, with care
Bunyonyi is often described as one of the few lakes in Uganda free of bilharzia, hippos and crocodiles, and many travellers swim here. Be aware that the bilharzia claim has never been formally verified, and at least one source reports cases in recent years. The lake is also very deep close to shore in places. If you swim, do so at your lodge’s recommended spot, with someone who knows the water, and ask about the current situation.
Culture and community
Visit Batwa and Bakiga communities, learn about weaving, blacksmithing and dance, and hear stories of the lake from the people who live around it. Please follow our Responsible Travel guidance: ask before you photograph, and avoid giving money or sweets to children.
Getting there
- From Kampala: about 450 kilometres, a long day of seven to eight hours by road via Masaka and Mbarara. Many travellers break the drive at Lake Mburo.
- From Kigali (Rwanda): a scenic road through Kabale, usually about half a day depending on the border.
- From Bwindi or Mgahinga: the lake is one of the most popular stops before or after gorilla trekking.
Lodges are scattered around the shore and on the islands, many reached by boat from landing points such as Rutinda. Some islands are quiet and self-contained, so confirm transfers in advance.
When to go
Bunyonyi can be visited all year. The drier months, roughly June to August and December to February, give the clearest views and easiest walking. The rainy seasons make the hills intensely green, though the paths can be muddy. Nights are cool at this altitude, so pack a fleece.
Bunyonyi with Offmap Safaris
We usually place Bunyonyi after gorilla trekking, for two nights of rest, and before the drive to Kigali or Kampala. It also combines with Lake Mburo and Queen Elizabeth National Park. Read our Health & Safety page for guidance on altitude, malaria and insurance. Plan your safari, message us on WhatsApp +256 701 243 304 or email [email protected].
